Fuitiere Cooperative d'Arbois ‘Béthanie’ Chardonnay/Savagnin ‘Demi-Sous Voile’ 2016 Jura France

Superlative: 92/100

There is only subjectivity in wine

My father was the local doctor near Arbois in the mid-80s.

He would always come back from work with present from his patients, mostly farmers. Eggs for sir, tomatoes and any other bits from the garden, in season. He got paid once with half a cow. He would always come back with a bottle or two of this wine of Arbois.

I grew up with this wine. I lived among the farmers, the vines. Played football in their living room...

Let's get to it

Luminous, medium-deep yellow-green colour.

Fragrant, seductive and somewhat oxidative nose. There's complex, subtly sweet-toned aromas of fresh peachy fruit, some aldehydic notes of green almonds, a little bit of smoke and nuttiness, light lifted notes of ethery volatile acidity.

The wine is dry, firm and quite concentrated on the palate. Its got very intense flavours of lemony citrus fruits, aldehydic notes of green almonds and tangy salinity, some sweet apple, light sappy notes of birch leaves, a little bit of pink grapefruit, a mushroom hint of umami and a touch of savoury, oxidative nuttiness.

The finish is crisp, racy and quite saline with intense flavours of tart lemony citrus fruits and sharp green apple tones. There are some aldehydic notes of sorrel and green almonds, a little bit of pink grapefruit, light umami notes of fried mushrooms, a hint of steely minerality and a touch of oxidative nuttiness.

A beautiful, impressively complex, and remarkably precise Jura white made in the traditional oxidative style.

Final verdict

Soil: Clay

Flavours: Savoury

Structure: Voluptuous

Style: Bold

Approach: Sustainable